Ipsut Creek Campground and Carbon River Trail Review

• When: January 11th & 12th

• Conditions: On and off rain, some sun breaks, no snow.

• Requirements: If you are camping, get a permit at the Carbon River Ranger Station

• Length: 9-12 miles depending on if you take some of the smaller side trails.

• Elevation Gain: ~1,500 feet

  
  

  

  The Carbon River in the Mount Rainier National Park from the trail going to Ipsut Creek Campground

  
  

This time of the year you’re not likely to see Mt. Rainier or even much of a view when hiking the Carbon River Trail to Ipsut Creek Campgrounds.  And that’s OK.  You’re not there for the views so much as you are there to take the time to soak in the beauty of an inland temperate rainforest. The hike is really more like an easy nature walk.  Only about 600 feet elevation gain by the time you get to the campground.  Which is good, because this gives you the time to relax and marvel at the old growth Western Red Cedars and Douglas Firs.  Some of these giants are 30+ feet in circumference and tower over their younger siblings.  Thick moss covers 90% of what you see in the forest and, yes, the air smells and feels fresher, more intense somehow.

A moss covered tree growing out of a tree stump

Along the way you’ll cross bridges that have been kept up from when the trail used to be a road.  When it’s cold like this use caution crossing them.  The wood is slick and just a little ice can by treacherous.  As you progress up the trail keep your eyes out for the Old Mine trail, Green Lake trail and the trail across the Carbon River to Chenius Falls.  The Old Mine and Chenious Falls trails are short, about a 1/3 of a mile and have little to no elevation gain.  The Green Lake trail on the other hand is a nine-mile round trip with an elevation gain of just under 1,500 feet.

Just before you reach the Ipsut Creek Campground, you’ll encounter a stream with occasional delusions of grandeur in the spring when it thinks it’s a river.  This is the big washout that eliminated the road to the campground.  To cross this there are three single log bridges with a single handrail on each bridge.  Again, when wet or icy, these bridges are slippery so take your time, take small steps and keep your hand on the handrail.

The campground has taken a beating over the years, with several trees having fallen on the campsites and some of the remaining picnic tables crushed under a fallen tree.  Nonetheless, there are plenty of good sites for tent or hammock camping along with bear boxes for your food and other smellables.   Further up the trail from the sign announcing your arrival at Ipsut Creek Campground, there are two solar powered toilets.  When I was there the weekend of January 11th, the first one was locked but the second was open.  Just past that there is a log cabin which is locked up.  At the back of the log cabin there is a covered area where you can get out of the rain if you’re not planning to set up a camp. 

A picnic table at the Ipsut Creek Campground crushed under a large fallen tree

Continue up the trail a little more and you’ll see the trail goes to Ipsut Falls.  To get to the falls you’ll go down a tiny valley and have to cross a stream.  There are two logs that have fallen across the stream which look like some folks have used as bridges.  They looked far too risky for my taste.  I was able to cross the stream hopping from rock to rock, using my hiking pole as a support.  If I can do that on a prosthetic leg, a healthy two-legged person should be able to manage with no problem. 

Ipsut Falls is a beautiful mountain fall tucked away in the forest.  There’s not much room there to admire the falls, just enough to find a place to sit and take in the natural beauty and relax to the sounds of rushing water. I would have spent more time there, but it started to rain more, and I needed to get my camp set up.

Back at the campground, I found a great location with an intact picnic table and a nearby bear box.  I rigged up my rainfly and hammock and assembled my sleep system, underquilt, Reflectix, sleeping bag and cocoon liner in the sleeping bag, (I’ll have a video of my camp on Amputee Outdoors in a week or two.)  Note, campfires aren’t allowed in the Mount Rainier National Park, so instead of sitting around a campfire contemplating the meaning of life, I relaxed with a cup of hot cocoa and read my copy of Beowulf. Darkness falls quickly in a valley like this, especially when surrounded by 200-300-foot-tall trees.

Nighttime temperatures dropped to just under 30F, but I was warm enough that I had to unzip my sleeping bag a little. The morning revealed a layer of ice on the picnic table and the handle to the bear box was frozen shut requiring a sharp hit to loosen it.

Breakfast was a healthy bowl of porridge and a cup of hot cocoa.  The camp breakdown was leisurely as I had no schedule to keep and I took my time on the hike back as I wanted to admire the old growth trees further.  Although the sky seemed to be threatening rain the whole way, I arrived back at the trailhead dry.  Of course, as soon as I started the drive home, it started to rain. Just beat it! 

Carbon River Trail and its peripheral trails are a treasure and suitable for families, and folks new to the hiking and backpacking experience.